All that glitters is not gold: tween and teen skincare
With my head in the clean skincare space, our family has- until now- been oblivious to the cheap, glittery, well-advertised world of the tween and teen skincare market. But it’s hitting us hard and fast now, and I don’t know what to do.
I’ve entered the world of parenting a tween- a word and concept I am not a fan of and a strange phase I don’t feel equipped to deal with. One of my first observations has been that these social media-savvy youngsters are keen to dip their toes into the world of beauty and cosmetics at a much younger age than my generation.
There were tears when I told my daughter she wasn’t allowed to use the perfume she was given for her birthday. When the sickly-sweet chemical smell gave me instant headaches, I told her to search the EWG’s Skin Deep website to see how this perfume was rated. Not surprisingly, the perfume “that all the girls at school love” scored a 9 out of 10, putting it in the high-hazard range.
This is not a cheap product. This is a popular product from Mecca, and its formulation and concentration of ingredients are of “high concern” for allergies and immunotoxicity, biochemical or cellular level changes, and of “moderate concern” for endocrine disruption, developmental/ reproductive toxicity, and non-reproductive organ system toxicity. Quite frankly, it’s terrifying. This is one product.
Take out the perfume, and our tweens and teens still face an enormous toxic burden. A first-of-its-kind study on 14-19-year-old teenagers in the US found 16 toxic chemicals in blood and urine samples. The study provides the first data available from teens on levels of synthetic chemical musks, common fragrance ingredients that accumulate in people and act like estrogen in the body, and preservatives called parabens that also mimic estrogen. According to Skin Deep research, ingredients such as parabens, phthalates, synthetic colours, formaldehyde, fragrances, and propylene glycol have been linked to hormone disruption, allergies, and disease. While people of all ages should ideally avoid these, they are particularly concerning for our young people experiencing physical and hormonal leaps in their development.
It’s not hard to see how our young people are exposed to rampant consumerism and are keen to buy the latest gimmicky lip glass, bath bomb, or nail art in all their glossy and sparkling glory. Now that I think about it, I was just as influenced by the scratch-and-sniff advertising of Impulse Deodorant in Dolly Magazine and testing the range of different scented bottles in the PE changeroom. The deodorant-clouded changeroom has undoubtedly stayed with me in more than just memory.
But although we now know better, we are not necessarily doing better. There’s a growing trend for transparent, green skincare brands sharing where they source their ingredients and even how they formulate their products. Unfortunately, the tweens and teens are missing these brands as they’re caught in a trance of the marketing juggernaut of fluoro and pastel-coloured packaging – or “aesthetic,” as my 11-year-old tells me- and its nasty contents. My “wear sunscreen and wash your face” message can’t compete. And I’m not in her good books for controlling what she sees as age-appropriate and socially conducive consumerism.
Search ‘tween and teen beauty’ if you’re unaware of the messages shaping our kids’ idea of skincare and beauty. The products that ‘fight’ acne are the absolute worst. Interestingly a lot of the tween brands’ messaging is directed at parents. One brand claims, “the habit of daily self-care can help build your child’s sense of self-worth.” I would argue that it can exacerbate a negative body image by implying that their less-than-perfect skin needs constant attention and that their appearance is paramount to who they are. This brand finished its cringe-worthy pitch with the message to the parents and purchasers that a “lifetime of beautiful skin” is “one of the best gifts” we can give our children. It’s hard to believe anyone is buying into this- but the tween beauty market continues to grow.
It’s hard to believe anyone is buying into this….
all that glitters is not gold
Have you ever questioned whether these products are even necessary? One tween-focused brand states that their products can be used on children as young as five because they are so gentle. They claim their facial cleanser is great for little ones after using sunscreen, having their faces painted, or getting extra grubby. If your tween has severe skin issues, something else is likely going on, and a skincare routine will not answer the problem. Dermatologists agree that a simple and balanced approach is best for the rest of this age group when a few spots start to appear. In a recent episode of Mamamia's beauty podcast, dermatologist Dr. Eleni Yiasemides offered her advice on tween skin and the products they should use. "In the morning, I ask my tweens to do one thing and one thing only: to get into the habit of putting on a cream that contains SPF," Dr Yiasemides said. There are plenty of natural zinc-based sunscreens around that also contain nourishing and moisturising oils and are not too heavy to wear every day. She suggested that in the evening, a gentle cleanser followed by a light moisturiser helps the delicate balance of keeping the skin free of environmental impurities and treating the skin as delicate ‘infant skin.’
As an educator of 17 years- 14 of those teaching teenage girls- and now as a parent and small business owner in the clean skincare space, I’d like to do more. I’m all ears to your suggestions on how we can, at the very least, reduce our youngsters’ toxic burden and encourage them to be content with their natural beauty.
As a first step, I’m creating a free download for tweens and teens to help them navigate the glittering world of commercial skincare. This resource will help them read labels, identify safe and toxic ingredients, and list brands and products verified as no-to-low tox. Keep an eye out for my next download, which offers fun and easy skincare recipes and rituals for teens.